Thought I’d post this DonJoy Ad as unless you subscribe to Orthopaedic Product News, which is a magazine read by surgeons and other medical practitioners involved in orthopaedics you probably won’t see it. Pretty unlikely sponsor but when you have the sort of luck I do it’s a pretty dam good one and without their super light weight custom knee braces I wouldn’t have been able to surf last winter so for me it’s been essential.
There’s a few things I can tell you about this photo which may or may not interest you, it was taken one evening at a little beachie called Windmills by Selway/wavelength in West Australia: another thing would be that this is me doing a turn and although admittedly it isn’t a very good one it is a turn and it doesn’t happen very often. Secondly is that prior to this wave I had a full on freak out, I mean like a proper emotional surf breakdown. I’d spent nearly 30 mins at this beachie without even getting a wave, I cracked and paddled in a broken man, chucked my board in a massive bush and demanded we get the fuck outta here, preferably via somewhere I can sell all my boards so I have some cash before I embark on a 2 week bender in Perth and actually start having some fun. Surprisingly enough I didn’t get much resistance from Selway.
‘yeah whatever you want to do cotton but the lights still pretty sick and Jayce or Capel are still getting good waves’
I sat on the beach for a few minutes before losing the plot with the constant bombardment of fly’s landing on my face, It all seemed to be going from bad to worse and the realisation that maybe surfing wasn't that bad of an option I decided to try and retrieve my board from the bush I so stupidly launched it into a few minutes earlier, this wound me up even more because it was really deep and the bush had those horrible thorns on it which really ‘stuck in’ as I frolicked about searching for my board, maybe I slightly over reacted and I need to find a bit more patience.
I ended up going back in and getting a couple waves before dark, but the third thing was when going through the photos later on it was remarked that although this was a ‘nice’ photo it would never ever get used and probably should have just been deleted of the back of the camera like most of my shots that day.
I’m pretty happy it wasn’t.
There’s a few things I can tell you about this photo which may or may not interest you, it was taken one evening at a little beachie called Windmills by Selway/wavelength in West Australia: another thing would be that this is me doing a turn and although admittedly it isn’t a very good one it is a turn and it doesn’t happen very often. Secondly is that prior to this wave I had a full on freak out, I mean like a proper emotional surf breakdown. I’d spent nearly 30 mins at this beachie without even getting a wave, I cracked and paddled in a broken man, chucked my board in a massive bush and demanded we get the fuck outta here, preferably via somewhere I can sell all my boards so I have some cash before I embark on a 2 week bender in Perth and actually start having some fun. Surprisingly enough I didn’t get much resistance from Selway.
‘yeah whatever you want to do cotton but the lights still pretty sick and Jayce or Capel are still getting good waves’
I sat on the beach for a few minutes before losing the plot with the constant bombardment of fly’s landing on my face, It all seemed to be going from bad to worse and the realisation that maybe surfing wasn't that bad of an option I decided to try and retrieve my board from the bush I so stupidly launched it into a few minutes earlier, this wound me up even more because it was really deep and the bush had those horrible thorns on it which really ‘stuck in’ as I frolicked about searching for my board, maybe I slightly over reacted and I need to find a bit more patience.
I ended up going back in and getting a couple waves before dark, but the third thing was when going through the photos later on it was remarked that although this was a ‘nice’ photo it would never ever get used and probably should have just been deleted of the back of the camera like most of my shots that day.
I’m pretty happy it wasn’t.
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