Its a hard feeling to describe but when ever a predicted swell doesn't quite meet my expectations i get this thing in my stomach, its like disappointment, excitement and anger rolled into one with a touch dissolution in any swell and weather forecasting site on the whole world wide web. However there were tales of WOW filtering though to the green green hills of North Devon that the best swell in years had actually hit the spot and produced some epic waves, down on the south coast it looked like leven produced the goods and i was also getting inside info that a couple of new spots where macking and had been surfed in Ireland.

I sat the swell out in Croyde, deciding it was the best option as I'm still not 100% fit and i planned on ridding Bertha my big red board to ease myself back into the swing of things. I had a few waves on the beach and again on the point, far from epic but at the same time super stoked to be back in the sea.