Andrew Cotton

Thursday, 20 October 2011

Back to earth with a bang

After a solid driving marathon from Scotland to London to drop my co pilots off, being stuck in a traffic jam on the M4 for 2 hours, getting lost in Swindon trying to follow a ridiculous diversion, getting to Cardiff to swap vehicles only to find out my shit yellow van won’t start, waiting for the AA then downing enough Redbull to stimulate my brain until I reached North Devon I somehow found it quite hard to sleep when I got home late on Sunday so I booked a ticket to Portugal leaving the next day to catch up with my friends at Nazare. To be honest I’d missed the first day of the swell which was by far the biggest but the weeks forecast wasn’t looking to shabby so I thought what the hell, the crew here are always so friendly and after the first couple of waves it was already worth it. Ok so it’s not huge but not so small either and I can promise you this beachie packs a punch.
The shot is how not to deal with the shore break, I was trying to avoid the whole being stuck inside beach scenario which I’d gone through about 6 times already this session it’s a nightmare but instead I pretty much launched myself 20ft high landing face first onto what felt like concrete, knocking the wind out of myself not being able to breathe then having to go get my board from the beach anyway. You live and learn and next time I’ll man up and just pull in, its way easier.

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